Piccioli stuns in Balenciaga couture debut

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first couture collection for Balenciaga debuted under a Parisian summer sky, signaling a shift from the house’s recent style while honoring its legacy.

The Italian designer, who assumed the role of creative director in May 2025, officially began his tenure in July following Demna’s final show. Balenciaga’s annual couture presentation in July gave Piccioli nearly a year to develop his vision.

The show: a sunlit return to grandeur

The collection took place outdoors at Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, a mid-century campus that contrasted with Demna’s earlier, more intimate couture shows inside Balenciaga’s Avenue George V salons. Guests like Demi Moore, Naomi Watts, and Isabelle Huppert sat on bleachers as models walked a boxwood-lined runway.

Color played a key role in the presentation. Notable pieces included a grass-green silk gazar gown with an interlocked bustier, a hand-painted tank dress, and an emu-feather-embroidered trench coat. Gigi Hadid wore an iridescent black rooster feather headpiece, a collaboration with milliner Philip Treacy that recalled Cristóbal Balenciaga’s chou cape designs.

Piccioli described couture as an opportunity for experimentation during a preview. “The process is a journey shared with others,” he explained. “It’s the most valuable experience you can have.”

Asked about differences between Parisian and Roman ateliers, he minimized them. “What matters is understanding each other and sharing ideas,” he said. “It’s a shared effort.”

A house in transition

Balenciaga’s financial results reflect the broader luxury slowdown. One analysis estimates the brand’s 2025 sales at €1.47 billion, a decline from €1.65 billion the year before. Under Demna, revenue had quadrupled since 2015, but Kering’s first-quarter earnings showed renewed growth, driven by demand for leather goods such as the City and Rodeo bags.

Kering’s CFO Armelle Poulou told analysts Piccioli’s appointment would “reinforce the brand’s identity while maintaining its distinctiveness.” She noted his impact was already visible in ready-to-wear, particularly in womenswear, which had previously been overshadowed by menswear. “The handbag category is also performing well,” she added.

During Kering’s April Capital Markets Day, CEO Luca de Meo outlined plans to double Balenciaga’s leather goods and women’s ready-to-wear business by 2030, aiming to double revenue in the Americas. “Balenciaga connects with the new generation,” de Meo said. On Wednesday, de Meo sat front row next.

The house’s Instagram account was cleared before the debut, replaced with three posts featuring headshots of the creative studio and atelier teams—all identified by first names. The caption read: “These are the people who built this collection with me.” Among them was Bruno Sialelli, the former Lanvin creative director who had joined the studio.

The debut marked a new phase for Balenciaga while reinforcing Piccioli’s reputation for blending tradition with fresh ideas. His focus on the people behind the work remained central to the collection’s success.