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London Fashion Week SS27: Harris Reed’s Restrained Return

By Eliza Thornton 3 min read
London Fashion Week SS27: Harris Reed's Restrained Return - fashion week
London Fashion Week SS27 officially began on 17 September 2026, transforming various city spaces.

London Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 shows have kicked off with a bang, showcasing the city’s diverse and innovative fashion scene. From intimate salon presentations to grand productions, the first two days have been packed with headline-making moments. The Spring/Summer 2027 schedule officially began on 17 September, and in just two days, London has transformed spaces from hotel salons to Victorian churches, basement clubs, skate parks, and the Design Museum.

Harris Reed’s Intimate Return to Form

Designer Harris Reed opened his latest chapter with a surprisingly restrained collection, marking his first namesake show since leaving Nina Ricci. Reed’s signature theatricality took a backseat as he focused on the women who buy his clothes. For the first time in years, models traded their 18-centimetre platforms for a more grounded approach, reflecting a shift in Reed’s design philosophy.

The presentation, held in the Mandarin Oriental ballroom in Knightsbridge, featured a predominantly white color palette, with only a few exceptions, including a hand-painted creamy-gold duchess satin jacket. Reed described the collection as a “phantom” reflection on his 11 seasons in the industry. The intimate setting was enhanced by pre-show dirty martinis, adding a touch of sophistication to the experience.

H&M’s Grand Digital Experiment

In stark contrast to Reed’s intimate show, H&M closed the opening day with a massive production at Olympia London. Creatively directed by Nick Knight, the show featured a 40-metre interactive runway, curved mirrors, and AI visuals. The event, titled H&M&YOU&I, showcased the brand’s Autumn 2026 womenswear, Studio line, and Atelier menswear collections, despite being part of the SS27 edition of LFW.

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Around 700 guests watched from inside Olympia as Brazilian ballerina Ingrid Silva opened the show with choreography designed to activate the lighting. Labrinth provided the soundtrack, while models like Alex Consani, Paloma Elsesser, Lila Moss, Karen Elson, Kristen and Lily McMenamy, and Archie Renaux walked the runway. The collection moved through three distinct moods: romantic Victorian and Edwardian references, sharper city dressing, and an eclectic mix of denim, leather, and layered accessories.

The show’s finale was a performance piece, with models Alex Consani and Archie Renaux delivering a spoken-word interpretation of “I Want to Know What Love Is” before Labrinth performed the song live. The guest list was equally impressive, featuring celebrities like Tems, Myha’la, Laura Harrier, Cruz Beckham, Kim Petras, Grace Van Patten, Jackson White, Audrey Nuna, Manu Ríos, Omar Rudberg, and Leomie Anderson. As a Fashion Week moment, H&M undeniably understood the assignment, even if it wasn’t the purest SS27 fashion proposition.

Other notable moments from the opening days included a fashion debut 100 years in the making at M&S and a return to the catwalk after two years for Mowalola. The city’s younger designers have also made an especially impressive showing, highlighting London’s role as a launchpad for fresh talent. With a mix of established names and up-and-coming talent, London Fashion Week continues to be one of the most exciting events on the fashion calendar, pushing boundaries and challenging expectations at every turn.

Eliza Thornton

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