Pablo Kuemin brings subcultures to the runway

Paris-based hairstylist Pablo Kuemin has built a reputation for turning subcultural styles into high-fashion statements. His designs—razor-sharp mohawks, acid-green dreadlocks, and wigs adorned with fresh wildflowers—have become a staple on runways, where hair serves as a sculptural centerpiece rather than mere accessory.

From Swiss Countryside to Underground Raves

Kuemin spent his early years in rural Switzerland, an area he once called “postcard-perfect.” Neighbors exchanged sugar, and the scenery resembled images from tourist brochures. The quiet setting clashed with his later experiences in Europe’s underground techno scene, which shaped his creative perspective.

“I struggled with my identity as a Swiss-born hairstylist who grew up in what seemed like a perfect childhood,” he said. “I wondered what cultural references I could bring to my work.” The answer arrived when he encountered the photography of Karl-Heinz Weinberger, whose images of local subcultures struck a chord. “I used my brother’s passport to attend underground raves across Europe. There, we experimented with shaved heads, bold colors, and wigs.”

Those early experiments formed the basis of his approach. “When possible, I create the environment the hair will inhabit before styling it,” he explained. “This method simplifies the process for me and helps my team visualize the concept.”

Punk Roots and High-Fashion Runways

Kuemin’s path shifted when he abandoned plans to study design at London’s Central Saint Martins. At 15, he chose an apprenticeship, initially considering architecture or tailoring before friends persuaded him to try hairdressing. “They insisted I had a knack for it,” he recalled. “I took their advice and never regretted it.”

His work with brands like Vetements and collaborations with photographers such as Emily Lipson have erased boundaries between street style and haute couture. For the DSM × Kei Ninomiya show, he crafted mohawks and liberty spikes decorated with wildflowers, balancing structural precision with organic elements. “We even explored adding small water sources inside the wigs to preserve the flowers,” he said. “Ultimately, we decided it wasn’t practical.”

Subcultures—punk, rave, queer nightlife—frequently inspire his designs. “Most of my work connects to my experiences as a teenager,” he said. “The underground parties left a lasting mark.” That influence extends beyond aesthetics; it redefines identity. “I stumbled upon Karl-Heinz Weinberger’s book in a Paris bookshop and realized Swiss subculture had its own edge. Some of the images felt like they were made for me. They reshaped how I saw myself.”

For Kuemin, hair transcends styling—it becomes a form of storytelling.

Lately, he has focused on the process of transformation. “I adjust quickly to new places and environments,” he noted. This flexibility explains why his work feels both timeless and contemporary—grounded in subculture yet constantly evolving.